Provence in 14 trips !
Weekly comments and diary about 14 trips to Provence France, including stories and recipes and noteworthy places to visit.
Saturday, August 11, 2012
What happened to the time????
Oh my gosh! I started this blog then got consumed in the construction of our new bakery and four new B&B rooms at The Eagle's Nest and the new back patio deck. All that and the daily running of the entire business has kept me away form this project. So I pledge to begin a regular report each week beginning in October. At that time I will be translating my paternal grandfathers handwritten cookbook from his days in culinary school in Paris. He studied there in the late 1890's before cooking throughout France and then in America. I hope to share a few of those recipes here as the book evolves. So if you happen to be following this blog, keep checking back as the new info may be quite interesting to readers who love every thing French! If all goes well the book could come out in time for Christmas 2013. Bonjour!
Monday, March 26, 2012
Walnuts, Goat Cheese & Honey
Shortly after arriving in St. Remy we had late evening dinner in a small restaurant about 20 km outside of the town at a somewhat lonely crossroads. I think we were actually lost and starving, and saw the warm light from the leaded glass windows inviting us in. We were only one of three couples dining that evening, and the proprietor took special care of us. We received an appetizer of toasted baguette spread with a creamy fresh goat cheese and then slightly baked and then drizzled with warm honey and toasted chopped walnuts and sprinkled with what appeared to be finely chopped thyme; just a dash! It was delicious and I've used it from time to time when needing a quick but impressive treat. Or sometimes, when John is away at an art show, just my own evening supper with a light salad and a glass of Eagle's Nest Riviera de Sel wine.
Our first trip to Provence initially took us to a charming house outside of St. Remy where we stayed about 4 days/nights, taking day trips around the region. Here we discovered boules, the national past time of French men, and now women and children, before evening supper and after work. It is a fun game to watch as well as play. Much like Italian Bocce Ball , except totally different type of balls, the rules are basically the same. If you visit St. Remy, as you are driving out of town towards Galumn/Le Baux/Maussane the local court is next to the tourism office and public toilets. ( I am now somewhat an expert on the location of public toilets in the region, which is good info to have ) Stop and sit on the stone wall and watch for awhile to enjoy the flavor of the competition and the culture.
Boules is not all we discovered.
We quickly realized we preferred the "N" or "D" roads to the "A" roads, mainly because there were no tolls on the N or D , but more specifically because we saw so much more and found so many intriguing places to stop and discover. Driving through the many villages we began to fall in love with Provence and the people and the pastry! Seriously tho, we were like little kids in a candy store with only ten cents and needing at least fifty cents to fill up the bag. Then and there we knew we would return...again and again.
On one of these day outings we came across a two story stone house that was quite deserted, sitting off in a field next to a dirt road. We drove down to it and poked around through the rooms and upstairs, wondering how anyone could just walk away from such a charming place. We decided it was a great "starter kit" and wondered how it could be acquired. Then the mind begin to imagine the possibilities of such a project; a place to restore and enjoy in years to come. I really believe that old house was the seed that planted the idea of our actually eventually living in Provence . With each subsequent trip we look for possibilities and now are defining where we would like to really settle after we sell The Eagle's Nest. When I say settle we only mean for 5 or 6 months per year, as we love our home and our friends in Missouri and would not want to leave there permanently. we would rent out our Provence Cottage, when not there, to others who love the region as much as we do. Hey, that might just be you! Until next time......
Our first trip to Provence initially took us to a charming house outside of St. Remy where we stayed about 4 days/nights, taking day trips around the region. Here we discovered boules, the national past time of French men, and now women and children, before evening supper and after work. It is a fun game to watch as well as play. Much like Italian Bocce Ball , except totally different type of balls, the rules are basically the same. If you visit St. Remy, as you are driving out of town towards Galumn/Le Baux/Maussane the local court is next to the tourism office and public toilets. ( I am now somewhat an expert on the location of public toilets in the region, which is good info to have ) Stop and sit on the stone wall and watch for awhile to enjoy the flavor of the competition and the culture.
Boules is not all we discovered.
We quickly realized we preferred the "N" or "D" roads to the "A" roads, mainly because there were no tolls on the N or D , but more specifically because we saw so much more and found so many intriguing places to stop and discover. Driving through the many villages we began to fall in love with Provence and the people and the pastry! Seriously tho, we were like little kids in a candy store with only ten cents and needing at least fifty cents to fill up the bag. Then and there we knew we would return...again and again.
On one of these day outings we came across a two story stone house that was quite deserted, sitting off in a field next to a dirt road. We drove down to it and poked around through the rooms and upstairs, wondering how anyone could just walk away from such a charming place. We decided it was a great "starter kit" and wondered how it could be acquired. Then the mind begin to imagine the possibilities of such a project; a place to restore and enjoy in years to come. I really believe that old house was the seed that planted the idea of our actually eventually living in Provence . With each subsequent trip we look for possibilities and now are defining where we would like to really settle after we sell The Eagle's Nest. When I say settle we only mean for 5 or 6 months per year, as we love our home and our friends in Missouri and would not want to leave there permanently. we would rent out our Provence Cottage, when not there, to others who love the region as much as we do. Hey, that might just be you! Until next time......
Friday, March 23, 2012
Thursday, March 22, 2012
The Salmon Omelet
Thursday March 22nd. Well I have yet to figure out how to put recipes on the side bar of this blog, but I will continue to work at it until I conquer! Last night I began to organize all my diaries from the 14 trips and have found some great places to visit and recipes to share that I had forgotten about. Our first food delight was a wonderful salmon omelet in a Paris restaurant called Le Mule de Pape, translated to The Mule of the Pope. It was our very first night in Paris before traveling down the Rhone to Avignon by TGV (the fast train). I was queasy after the flight and this charming little restaurant with the tremendous fresh floral display in the middle of the entrance beckoned us in to its charms. I explained (if you have played charades you know what I mean) to the handsome waiter I had an upset stomach and wanted something mild. AhAh! he knew what I wanted! A very light salad of bibb lettuce with a very fine olive oil dressing arrived with the fluffliest omelet I have ever enjoyed, and warm, crusty REAL French baguette. Tres Magnificant.
Sadly this restaurant is out of business a we have tried to return on subsequent visits to paris. But all in all it is a very fond memory and I have tried to duplicate the omelet, coming close but then the mind improves good things each passing year. Maybe I have achieved a match but expect it to be a tad better due to mind tricks. I do know if you add just a touch of ice cold water to your beaten egg just before pouring it into the buttered omelet pan it is lighter and raises higher, if not mangled in the flip. In France omelets are seved for both lunch and supper, where in the US we just think of them as breakfast food. I always rejoice when I see an omelet on a dinner menu here in the USA, and usually order it also.
We stayed that first night near the Le Bastille, which is also near the TGV Gare de Lyon station to assure ourselves of actually finding the station in the morning. If you ever plan to take the TGV from Paris to Avignon or points south, purchase your ticket stateside from the Internet and THEN make a reservation. Having a ticket is not the same as having a seat. Moving from seat to seat and car to car while traveling faster than the speed of sound to relinquish ones seat to an actual ticket/reservation holder isn't fun. A ticket just assures you entrance to the train. A reservation allows you to actually sit down and relax, pull out your book, your bottle of wine and some cheese with a bit of bread and pretend you are a local. Even in second class there are handy little table trays to dine on with your carry- on snack. Also when speeding down the track, avoid looking straight down next to the tracks. Doing so can cause your "snack" to reappear, unless you have an iron clad stomach and motion sickness has never been an issue. Instead look out to the countryside and marvel at the quaint villages, fields of vibrant yellow mustard and golden wheat. Vineyards will appear in the distance and orchards abound. You become lulled to sleep and the next thing you know you have arrived in Provence! Bonjour Provence!
Sadly this restaurant is out of business a we have tried to return on subsequent visits to paris. But all in all it is a very fond memory and I have tried to duplicate the omelet, coming close but then the mind improves good things each passing year. Maybe I have achieved a match but expect it to be a tad better due to mind tricks. I do know if you add just a touch of ice cold water to your beaten egg just before pouring it into the buttered omelet pan it is lighter and raises higher, if not mangled in the flip. In France omelets are seved for both lunch and supper, where in the US we just think of them as breakfast food. I always rejoice when I see an omelet on a dinner menu here in the USA, and usually order it also.
We stayed that first night near the Le Bastille, which is also near the TGV Gare de Lyon station to assure ourselves of actually finding the station in the morning. If you ever plan to take the TGV from Paris to Avignon or points south, purchase your ticket stateside from the Internet and THEN make a reservation. Having a ticket is not the same as having a seat. Moving from seat to seat and car to car while traveling faster than the speed of sound to relinquish ones seat to an actual ticket/reservation holder isn't fun. A ticket just assures you entrance to the train. A reservation allows you to actually sit down and relax, pull out your book, your bottle of wine and some cheese with a bit of bread and pretend you are a local. Even in second class there are handy little table trays to dine on with your carry- on snack. Also when speeding down the track, avoid looking straight down next to the tracks. Doing so can cause your "snack" to reappear, unless you have an iron clad stomach and motion sickness has never been an issue. Instead look out to the countryside and marvel at the quaint villages, fields of vibrant yellow mustard and golden wheat. Vineyards will appear in the distance and orchards abound. You become lulled to sleep and the next thing you know you have arrived in Provence! Bonjour Provence!
Wednesday, March 21, 2012
How it all began!
Beginning a blog that one intends to cover over fourteen years is daunting at best. To start at the beginning is even more years; about 27 years ago.
So I have decided to go back to 1979 when I was the Culinary Consultant for le Creuset USA. For those who are foodies and cookware groupies, le Creuset is that great, colorful and heavy enameled cast iron cookware. In 1979 it was just beginning to be enameled in the USA, with the cast iron "insides" made in France.
My job was to arrange cooking demonstrations across the USA in the major department stores and gourmet shops, utilizing le Creuset. Additionally I was sent off to study cooking in New York City and other cooking schools of note around the country. Tough job but someone had to do it!
About that time the parent company, le Creuset of France, called an international sales meeting in Nice, France. My classes were a hit in the USA and they wanted distributors in other countries to hear about our system of demonstration selling. My boss, President Bernie Mariano and Paul Bates our VP of marketing twisted my arm and made me attend. Anyone can imagine my reluctance to go to southern France for a week, but I sucked it up and packed my bags and headed off a day before the others. Ah, the sacrifices one makes to keep a job.
The meeting was actually held in a terrific resort just north of Nice by about 20 minutes, adjacent to the perched village of St.Paul de Vence. Imagine a young lady on her first trip to France discovering this unbelievable village brimming with art galleries, bistros and shops of all types. After returning home memories of that village remained etched in my mind long after almost any other aspect of the entire trip had receded to the dark crevices of my mind. (well there was one man I do recall; last of the great gentlemen) ( I was young, thin and single also!) I digress, sorry.
Fast forward years ahead to 1985, I am married to John and we have a son Clark and my two sons from my previous marriage, Aaron & Denton. We have left Chicago for a small sleepy Mississippi river town north of St. Louis, where John's work has taken us. I have been gone from le Creuset for years and we have started a two room B&B in our country home. I continue to cook and do some teaching on the side, and end up working for a firm that teaches management development, public speaking and sales techniques. Most everything I did as a Culinary Consultant applied to this position and once again I was flying literally around the world to teach these programs tailored to each company we worked for.
By 1998 my frequent flyer miles had stacked up and it only took 25,000 points to fly to Europe. I convinced John his life was not complete until he had visited southern France; like I was some former expat speaking from years of experience! I raved about St. Paul de Vence and the Mediterranean. Spoke with authority about the TGV from Paris to Avignon like I rode it everyday. Never! Booked a charming B&B near St. Remy recommended by our friend Becky, a frequent and knowledgeable French traveler. Rented a car at the train station well in advance and paid for it prior to leaving the USA. Wrong! Traded in my miles and booked the flight to Paris returning from Milan Italy. What was I thinking?
This first trip set the stage for all future trips. The experiences of this trip will always be a source of wonderful memories, particularly when we revisit the diary of our adventure. Next time I will begin to share the escapades and enlightenment of that first trip.
Until I return to the keyboard in a few days, happy spring and safe travels where ever you may journey. Karen
So I have decided to go back to 1979 when I was the Culinary Consultant for le Creuset USA. For those who are foodies and cookware groupies, le Creuset is that great, colorful and heavy enameled cast iron cookware. In 1979 it was just beginning to be enameled in the USA, with the cast iron "insides" made in France.
My job was to arrange cooking demonstrations across the USA in the major department stores and gourmet shops, utilizing le Creuset. Additionally I was sent off to study cooking in New York City and other cooking schools of note around the country. Tough job but someone had to do it!
About that time the parent company, le Creuset of France, called an international sales meeting in Nice, France. My classes were a hit in the USA and they wanted distributors in other countries to hear about our system of demonstration selling. My boss, President Bernie Mariano and Paul Bates our VP of marketing twisted my arm and made me attend. Anyone can imagine my reluctance to go to southern France for a week, but I sucked it up and packed my bags and headed off a day before the others. Ah, the sacrifices one makes to keep a job.
The meeting was actually held in a terrific resort just north of Nice by about 20 minutes, adjacent to the perched village of St.Paul de Vence. Imagine a young lady on her first trip to France discovering this unbelievable village brimming with art galleries, bistros and shops of all types. After returning home memories of that village remained etched in my mind long after almost any other aspect of the entire trip had receded to the dark crevices of my mind. (well there was one man I do recall; last of the great gentlemen) ( I was young, thin and single also!) I digress, sorry.
Fast forward years ahead to 1985, I am married to John and we have a son Clark and my two sons from my previous marriage, Aaron & Denton. We have left Chicago for a small sleepy Mississippi river town north of St. Louis, where John's work has taken us. I have been gone from le Creuset for years and we have started a two room B&B in our country home. I continue to cook and do some teaching on the side, and end up working for a firm that teaches management development, public speaking and sales techniques. Most everything I did as a Culinary Consultant applied to this position and once again I was flying literally around the world to teach these programs tailored to each company we worked for.
By 1998 my frequent flyer miles had stacked up and it only took 25,000 points to fly to Europe. I convinced John his life was not complete until he had visited southern France; like I was some former expat speaking from years of experience! I raved about St. Paul de Vence and the Mediterranean. Spoke with authority about the TGV from Paris to Avignon like I rode it everyday. Never! Booked a charming B&B near St. Remy recommended by our friend Becky, a frequent and knowledgeable French traveler. Rented a car at the train station well in advance and paid for it prior to leaving the USA. Wrong! Traded in my miles and booked the flight to Paris returning from Milan Italy. What was I thinking?
This first trip set the stage for all future trips. The experiences of this trip will always be a source of wonderful memories, particularly when we revisit the diary of our adventure. Next time I will begin to share the escapades and enlightenment of that first trip.
Until I return to the keyboard in a few days, happy spring and safe travels where ever you may journey. Karen
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